Striving towards Excellence

-Karthik Gurumurthy

We just got back from an incredible 2 week  trip to Japan  and thought I'd share my takeaways and recommendations based on what we experienced. Would love to go back there if possible. 

As a country with a rich cultural heritage and unique customs, visiting Japan can be an exciting and memorable experience.The country offers a unique blend of ancient traditions and modern innovations, beautiful natural landscapes, delicious cuisine, and a rich cultural heritage.To enjoy your visit to Japan, show respect for local traditions, immerse yourself in the local lifestyle, and embrace the beauty and diversity of this incredible destination.

Japanese culture places great importance on politeness and respect.Familiarize yourself with some basic customs, such as bowing when greeting, removing shoes in certain establishments, and using chopsticks correctly. Learning a few common phrases in Japanese, such as greetings and thank you, can also go a long way; or at least make your new friends giggle.  Shobana and Ashwin spent last couple of months learning Japanese and practicing them every days.  When Ashwin spoke to locals in Japanese, they were pleasantly surprised and felt more connected too. I used this link to go through the basics.

Japan has an efficient and extensive transportation system. The Shinkansen (bullet train) is an iconic way to travel between major cities quickly.Local trains, buses, and subways are convenient within cities. Consider purchasing a Japan Rail Pass if you plan to travel extensively by train. Alternatively, local transportation cards like Suica or Pasmo are useful for shorter trips.

Some popular places to visit include Tokyo (the vibrant capital city), Kyoto (renowned for its temples and traditional culture), Osaka (known for its food and nightlife), Hiroshima (historically significant), Nara (home to friendly deer and ancient temples), and Hokkaido (famous for its scenic landscapes and winter sports).

We didn't follow the usual pattern of trying to hit 4+ cities in Japan. Changing hotels every couple of days is exhausting . We're more relaxed travelers who like to strike a balance between activities and taking it easy. We focused our vacation in Tokyo and Kyoto which we loved and stayed one day in Osaka. We also visited Hiroshima and Nara while staying in Kyoto.

• For JR pass, i used https://www.japanstation.com/japan-rail-pass-value.../ to see if it was worth it for us. We ended up with the 14 day pass because we took a lot of shinkansen
• Download the JapanTravel and JapanOfficialTravelApp apps. They allow for you to search using JR pass so you know which route to go. Jr is not always the fastest to get you to your destination. Google maps was great at navigating short walking distances but for long train rides, it didn’t have the feature to select JR rail pass (to my knowledge anyway). But I always had my partner use google maps so we could kind of bounce back and forth between the apps and we really didn’t get lost much, considering.
• Rails are used by multiple types of trains, make sure you look at what time your train should be departing/if it’s on the top of the announcement board, that means that’s the next train departing. That lets you know if you’re on the right train. (I’m from LA and never use the train. Maybe this is common knowledge lol) if the time shown on your google maps/japan travel app does not matching exactly what is on the sign board, you’re probably in the wrong place lol
• Make sure you also read all information on google maps, ie. What entrance to use for the station, what platform, what car to get onto for fastest exit. The information is critical. We felt like navigating Kyoto was so much more difficult because that information wasn’t given to us, but the information booths and even the locals are very helpful.
• Get to the JR ticketing station 10 minutes early to their opening to activate your pass. Don’t know if we just got lucky or what, but we came 10 min before opening and nobody was there. By the time they opened there was a crazy line that we did not expect. So account for that.
• Most JR Shinkansens don’t sell food, nor do the stations you’re boarding from. Always safe to grab an item or two at the combini before leaving. We went until 3 pm with no food one day because we assumed we could buy food at the station, but the station we were leaving was so small there was nothing, and we were constantly rushing to catch the next train.
• Jr pass covers some buses too, so check that. We used it very often in Tokyo- mostly used Yamanote
• Google was sometimes inconsistent between mine and my wife's phone. We had to work as a team sometimes to get to our destination
• PLEASE BE RESPECTFUL OF THE CULTURE AND BE QUIET ON PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION.. and pretty much everywhere else. We noticed groups of foreigners just being so loud, even loud enough that we had to move seats on our 2.5 hr Shinkansen because a group was practically yelling their entire conversation. If it bothered us that much, I can’t imagine what the Japanese were thinking.
• Wear comfortable shoes. Columbia walking shoes which we all got was awesome. The first few days of walking 20k+ steps really killed me but your body gets used to it and it gets better, I promise!
• Umbrellas are super cheap and quite a few of our hotels let guests borrow them for no charge. I wouldn’t pack one unless really indicated.
• Don't worry too much about what youre wearing. Most people dress fairly modest here, but they also don't really care what you're wearing.
• Traveling around Tokyo: Foreigners are easily intimidated by the sheer expanse of Japan's capital city and its 17 million inhabitants (5 million are commuters); however, due to this volume alone Tokyo has developed an unmatched public transportation system and an intricate network of visitor friendly information resources. The best way to travel Tokyo's frantic bustle is to allow the subway to lead the way. A loose itinerary will draw you into true Japanese life through unexpected encounters and more intimate experiences. For a dose of New York in Tokyo, visit  Shibuya  which is rife with higher-end shops, shrines, King-Kong-sized plasma TV screens and the busiest pedestrian street crossing in the world. Meiji-jingu is the most impressive of Tokyo's Shinto shrines; built with Japanese cypress and copper plates for the roof. Even though the shrine was destroyed during World War II, the reconstruction has not lost any of the grandeur. Spent today in Asakusa at Sensoji temple, souvenir shopping then Kappabashi Dougu Street (kitchen street) . Sensoji is beautiful and busy, but we found plenty of quiet spaces. Asakusa is definitely the place for Japanese souvenirs. There are lovely shops in the side streets too away from the main street.
• Directly in the centre of Tokyo, the Imperial Palace (Kokyo) is an inner-city sanctuary that is home to the Imperial Family. The public can visit the surrounding East Gardens and walk along the double bridge over the tranquil moats of the palace grounds, but the palace buildings and inner courtyard are closed to visitors.
• Kyoto  has over 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines. My favorite place Kyoto, the city where the ancient capital of Japan once stood, is home to countless cultural attractions and historic sites. It is also the perfect base for your visit to the Kansai region, which also includes Osaka, Kobe, Nara and Himeji. 
• Kyoto Transportation: What a place! It took us a while to get our heads around it - the city seems to rely more on the bus system than the train system, which took some getting used to for us, as we loved the trains in Tokyo. However, they’re easy to navigate with google maps, they’re frequent..they’re just very busy at this time of year, so be prepared! We chose to walk rather than take the bus often because of this. But they work brilliantly.

• Must see places in Kyoto
  • Kinkakuji Temple (the famous Golden Pavilion temple):Kinkaku-ji also known as the the Golden Pavilion, in Kyoto. Kinkaku-ji is one of Kyoto's most famous and iconic temples, renowned for its stunning golden exterior and serene surroundings.Originally built in the 14th century as a retirement villa for a shogun,  Kinkakuji was later converted into a Zen Buddhist temple.The top two floors of the pavilion are completely covered in gold leaf, creating a breathtaking sight that reflects off the pond in front of the temple. Kinkaku-ji is situated in northern Kyoto, amidst beautifully landscaped gardens, and is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • Nijo Castle (the former Kyoto residence of the shogun with spacious Japanese gardens) 10:00am 8/10 very big takes 1 hour to walk around! 400 yen Entry Fee
  • Fushimi Inari Shrine unending path of vibrant orange torii gates) amazing!! Totally worth it!
  • Arashiyama Bamboo Forest scenic natural area with magnificent bamboo grove). You have got to be there!
  • For food- a few people recommended Engine Ramen - and YES, what a place! A little different from traditional ramen as the soup is more creamy - almost Thai or Vietnamese style I’d say - it was absolutely gorgeous and Ashwin loved it too. You take a ticket and wait in line, so be prepared to wait. Totally worth it. 
  • Afterwards, head to Nishiki Market, a market with a difference. Known as Kyoto's Kitchen, Nishiki Market is filled with more than 100 restaurants and food stands selling everything from seafood to pickles – a truly local experience! Us being vegetarian just watched everything but still great experience.
    In conclusion, Kyoto boasts a rich cultural heritage and a long history, and is a great place to experience Japan's traditional life. If you do visit this beautiful city, I hope it will be a great experience for you!

-Karthik Gurumurthy

In high school at one point of time, I struggled with Math. Try as I may I just never seemed to get the grades I desired. I was attending all the classes, doing my homework on time, studying for my tests and yet falling short. I got increasingly discouraged. One session my Math teacher  NR said “What matters is that you put in your 100%, the result you get may or may not be the best, but that does not matter.Hard work will always reap rewards." It is the best piece of advice I have ever received but it is also the most difficult to follow. We live in a time where results matter most. We are being judged by our test scores, GPA, class standing, school ranking. We are result oriented. When we put in efforts we expect results in accordance. But sometimes it is good to take a step back and enjoy the journey. It is good to appreciate ourselves even when things do not go our way. Efforts matter more than results.

-Karthik Gurumurthy

We visited Hiroshima today.. It was painful and we went there with a heavy heart and , here's the deal with Japan and war - they're completely over it. Their constitution literally says they'll never go to war again, period. They won't even keep military forces around, and they won't use force to solve international problems. It's super serious - they won't even let the country get angry about stuff.

The Hiroshima memorial is intense. You start at this bombed-out dome, which was basically the only thing left standing after the bomb. It used to be this fancy exhibition hall from 1915, and now it's just a shell reminding everyone how awful war is.

The whole point of the memorial park is to show that violence never helps anyone. The museum really drives this home by showing how everything changed forever after that day. You walk in and see what life was like before August 6, 1945 - pictures of the city, kids playing at a pool, normal stuff. Then boom - at 8:15 AM, everything changes. The sky goes white, mushroom clouds form, and the devastation is immediate but also lasts for generations.

They explain how atomic bombs kill in three ways: heat, explosion, and radiation. The Hiroshima bomb ("Little Boy") had the force of 15,000 tons of TNT, while the Nagasaki bomb ("Fat Man") was even stronger at 21,000 tons. By the end of the year, 140,000 people died in Hiroshima and 70,000 in Nagasaki.

The exhibits are rough. I mean, really graphic - bloody clothes, melted metal from temples, even a shadow permanently burned into stone steps. There are photos of people trying to drink radioactive rain without knowing it'll kill them. Even people who came to help got radiation poisoning.

Leaving Hiroshima, I'm struck by how they turned from war and violence to peace after 1945. That takes guts. And it paid off - 74 years later, Hiroshima is this beautiful, thriving city that shows how a place can literally rise from the ashes and rebuild something amazing.

-Karthik Gurumurthy

Some travelers come to Kyoto hunting for that elusive Geisha sighting, as if their journey wouldn't be complete without it. Me? I'd be happy with just a Sakura latte and genuine veggie tempura- though I haven't found either yet. Perhaps that's for the best. Isn't there something magical about keeping certain wishes unfulfilled? The moment we get what we want, satisfaction slips away, and we're already craving something new.

Kyoto - home to about 250 temples between the Shinto shrines and Buddhist sanctuaries - carries a mystique that's inspired countless artists and writers. Every Japan veteran I spoke with insisted I spend more time here, dismissing Tokyo with a wave: "There's nothing much there." But I disagree completely. Tokyo gave me the perfect introduction to Japanese ingenuity, planning, and execution. Kyoto, however, revealed something deeper - the soul of Japan, its philosophy, and way of being.

It was in a humble 7-11 in Kyoto where I caught a glimpse of this cultural puzzle. The Japanese gentleman running the store told me in his crisp British accent: "You see, Japan is just different. A conversation at a Japanese family dinner table is completely different from that of an American or English family." He left it at that - cryptic, mysterious - leaving me wondering what makes the Japanese experience so unique.

I've noticed small things. The silence here feels intentional, despite life's usual noises. People rarely speak or laugh loudly. Their politeness borders on ceremonial - railway clerks bow each time they enter a carriage, dressed impeccably from formal hat to gleaming shoes.

"Everyone in Japan, from the CEO to the janitor, takes enormous pride in their work," our Kyoto friend Akaji explained. This pride extends to possessions too. The taxis and cars shine so brilliantly I wondered if they're washed and waxed daily. A confirmed my suspicions - a dusty car is like "inviting a demon into one's life." Everything receives attention and respect, as if the state of your surroundings mirrors your inner world.

This philosophy became even clearer as we wandered through Kyoto's famous Gion district. Despite crowds of tourists, a peaceful atmosphere prevailed. Everywhere, I saw devotion - wishes hanging from wooden amulets in every temple, visitors having fortunes read, people relinquishing control to higher powers. "At least 60 to 70 percent of my wishes have come true," Akaji confided as we passed Yasui Kompiragū Shrine, where worshippers crawl through an opening and back again, hoping to manifest their dreams.

Our Gion wanderings gifted us countless picturesque moments. We knew a Geisha was never far away, and spotting one would make our trip "official" in some tourists' eyes. These talented entertainers are wrapped in mystery - no one knows where they live. They appear rarely, emerging from taxis or teahouses like apparitions. They lead disciplined lives and rank among Japan's most educated people. By retirement, they've amassed considerable wealth.

But perhaps Kyoto's true magic lies not in checking items off a tourist list, but in absorbing its silent wisdom - finding beauty in the unfulfilled wish, the disciplined pursuit, and the dignity of giving everything, even the smallest task, your complete attention.

-Karthik Gurumurthy

Picture this: We arrive at the Imperial Palace, all excited, only to find the grounds are closed. But you know what? Sometimes the best moments happen when plans fall apart. We found ourselves wandering along the palace perimeter instead, surrounded by joggers and fellow disappointed tourists. Those imposing palace gates might have been locked tight, but the willows dipping their branches toward the moat's green waters softened the whole scene.

We made our way to the famous Nijubashi Bridge - one of those iconic spots where the old wooden and steel structure reflects perfectly in the calm water below.

There was just too much to see and do! Even though we couldn't go inside the palace, the views from outside were absolutely breathtaking, even with the cherry blossoms already finished for the season.

What struck me most about Tokyo was this incredible harmony between old and new. Everything just... works together. The city's packed with buildings, yet there are green spaces everywhere. Young people rush around while elderly folks with walking sticks make their way quietly through the underground. And get this - there are these ribbed yellow walkways marking paths for the blind, not just on streets but inside bathrooms too, with braille on the flush buttons. Even restaurants have containers under tables to hold your bags!

The second day, we crisscrossed the city on the metro and walked eight miles, if you can believe it. In Jimbocho - this book lover's paradise - we stumbled into Tokyo's oldest bookstore from 1902. They had these rare English translations of Japanese authors that cost a fortune. And there was this "Books Hotel" where guests literally sleep surrounded by books. One room's dedicated entirely to Manga, but only residents can access it. Here's something that fascinated me: Japanese books are read in reverse from English ones, with page numbers going backwards too. Bookstores display them with pages on the left and spines on the right!

We got a bird's-eye view from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, 45 floors up. Looking down at this city of 37 million people, you can truly feel its immensity. Tokyo isn't endlessly romantic like Paris - it's more pragmatic, like Berlin, but with architecture that makes you stop and stare.

My friend  Harish had  mentioned  something interesting - you can barely find trash cans in public because people carry their garbage home. It's all about reducing consumption and keeping things simple. And you know what? The city sparkles because of it.

We ended our day at The National Art Center, which looks absolutely striking from the outside. As we approached, we were greeted by the most dazzling azalea display I've ever seen. Inside, there were free exhibits on design and calligraphy - two arts at the very heart of Japanese culture. Did you know elementary students used to study calligraphy for six years? It's an art that demands tremendous effort and introspection.

By the end of that long, exhausting, but memorable day, Tokyo had shown us that sometimes the best way to see a city is to let it surprise you, even when your original plans don't work out.

-Karthik Gurumurthy

We had finally conquered the maze of Tokyo Station, though not without battle scars. Imagine this: after checking off an endless list of to-dos, we found ourselves trapped in serpentine lines, our patience wearing thin as we waited for something as simple as a printed ticket. It's one of life's little ironies that even the world's most efficient cities harbor their own peculiar inefficiencies. Japan, with all its technological marvels, surprised me with its curious attachment to cash transactions.

The contrast was striking. In India, even a humble coconut vendor on a remote beach readily accepts digital payment with a casual tap of your phone. Yet here, in futuristic Tokyo, paper money still reigns supreme. But then Japan balances these old-world habits with extraordinary modern comforts—like the magnificent Toto toilets gracing every public restroom, complete with warming seats and built-in bidets. That universal traveler's anxiety—"Will I find a decent bathroom?"—simply vanishes in this thoughtfully designed metropolis.

One of the the first thing I noticed here i- Japan infuses beauty into every corner of existence, elevating even the most mundane objects into something worthy of admiration. This truth has revealed itself countless times during our visit. The Starbucks locations here aren't merely coffee shops but architectural showcases. Even those ubiquitous streetside vending machines stand like cheerful sentinels, designed with an aesthetic sensibility that would be unthinkable elsewhere.

At the Japanese vegetarian restaurant, I found myself so captivated by the delicate serving dishes that I momentarily forgot to appreciate their contents. And the dessert shops! Displays of mochi, flan, and pastries arranged with such artful precision that they inspire equal parts admiration and desire.

Between our culinary adventures, we wandered through Ginza's fashionable streets and discovered ancient spiritual havens amid the urban energy. The Sensō-ji—one of Tokyo's oldest and most significant Buddhist temples—welcomed us with its magnificent five-story pagoda rising above lush gardens. Dedicated to Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion, this sacred space offered a moment of tranquility amid our whirlwind exploration.

In Tokyo, I discovered, even exhaustion comes wrapped in wonder.